In 2023, I had the opportunity to travel to Hwange and the experience was nothing short of eye-opening. The stark contrast between Hwange’s landscape and the lush greenery of Chimanimani was profoundly striking. While Chimanimani is a place I’ve visited often, its vibrant, verdant scenery and fresh, invigorating air had become almost routine to me—I had taken it for granted before my journey to Hwange.

Whenever I return from Chimanimani, I describe my experiences as collecting “green memories.” This phrase encapsulates the deep sense of peace and connection I feel amid its majestic landscapes. The air quality there is remarkable; it carries a freshness that seems infused with the essence of nature itself, alleviating the stresses of modern living. The serenity of the surroundings is almost palpable—the gentle rustle of leaves, the soft calls of birds, and the breathtaking vistas that stretch as far as the eye can see create a sanctuary where the concept of air pollution feels like a distant thought. Chimanimani is truly a testament to nature’s artistry, where every tree, stream, and mountain comes together in a harmonious display of beauty, captivating the heart and soul. Each visit leaves me with vivid, cherished memories that linger long after I return home, reminding me of the divine craftsmanship evident in our natural world.

My entry point to Hwange was Hwange Safari Lodge. As I explored the Lodge, I was immediately enveloped by the arid expanse, where the browns and ochres of the dry earth were a far cry from the verdant hues of Chimanimani I know so well. Yet, there was a raw beauty in its rugged wilderness, where the land spoke tales of endurance and survival. The unique stillness of the savannah was captivating, with only the distant sounds of wildlife occasionally punctuating the air—a reminder that life thrives in every corner of our world, even when it appears barren. The visiting elephants captivated me with their beauty and how they stood tall claiming the aridity of Hwange as if it was a dream.

Although Hwange Safari Lodge was extremely hot, it was a discomfort I felt I could endure, for I grew to appreciate its beauty. However, I was unprepared for the profound impact that the nearby town of Hwange, located about 80 kilometers from the lodge, would have on me. The experience overwhelmed me, filling me with a deep sense of sorrow and anguish that still eludes expression even as I try to articulate my feelings now.

I’ve encountered numerous tales that depict hell as a realm of unending torment, where one is subjected to relentless suffering that drains the very essence of life, forcing them to remain conscious of the searing heat and agonizing torture that engulf them. In a striking resemblance, I find the small town of Hwange embodying this harrowing analogy. Its residents navigate their daily lives amidst an atmosphere thick with pollution and oppressive heat, trapped in what feels like an abyss of despair.

The air hangs heavy with smoke and toxins, every breath a challenge as they inhale the remnants of nearby coal mining and industrial activities from the electricity generation that have long since degraded the natural environment. The relentless sun beats down, intensifying the already stifling conditions, creating a landscape that feels akin to a furnace. The heat seems to seep into their very bones, making even the simplest tasks feel monumental.

Unlike the fiery images of hell, however, the torment in Hwange is a slow, suffocating decline. The people here are not just enduring discomfort; they are gradually succumbing to the effects of the heat and pollution, their vitality waning as the environment around them grows increasingly hostile. There is a pervasive sense of resignation, as if they are caught in a tragic cycle of suffering with no escape. In Hwange, the agony is palpable, a daily existence that resembles the worst imaginings of a hellish nightmare, yet it unfolds in the stark reality of life in a town whose levels of air pollution are extremely high.

Upon returning home, I began to delve into the depths of the internet, seeking to uncover more about the unsettling experiences in Hwange. What I discovered was not only alarming but also deeply disturbing.

I came across numerous accounts detailing the devastation caused by underground coal seam fires that have been erupting in the area. These fires, hidden from view yet dangerously close to the surface, have left many residents with severe injuries and have wreaked havoc on local infrastructure. The situation is particularly dire for children, with several heartbreaking incidents reported where young ones have suffered severe burns as a direct result of these uncontrollable fires.

Moreover, the state-run mining company responsible for the coal extraction has faced criticism for their inaction. They have not only neglected to extinguish the flames but have also failed to engage with the affected communities, leaving them in the dark regarding potential solutions or future safety measures. This lack of communication has compounded the fear and uncertainty among residents; many of whom feel abandoned by those meant to protect them. The scars of these ongoing disasters run deep, impacting both the physical landscape and the emotional well-being of the community.

The Hwange territory is grappling with severe environmental issues, particularly water and land pollution, alongside ongoing coal seam fires and air pollution. Residents, especially those living downstream from the Deka River, have expressed deep concerns about the river’s contamination due to over a century of coal mining and processing in the area. This perennial river serves as a crucial resource for the community, providing water for drinking, subsistence farming, and fishing. Unfortunately, reports indicate that the water often appears discolored—ranging from green to yellow—and has been linked to the deaths of fish and livestock, raising alarming health and safety concerns for the local population.

Before my visit to Hwange, I regarded it primarily as a significant source of electricity for our nation, as a considerable portion of our national power supply is generated there. My previous perception overlooked the broader implications of coal mining and coal power generation on the environment and local communities. Like many, I had assumed that the process of generating power was inherently beneficial and posed no serious risks. However, my experiences in Hwange opened my eyes to a much more troubling reality.

I discovered that the environmental degradation caused by coal mining is far-reaching and severe. The landscapes of Hwange are marred by the scars of extensive mining activities, leading to habitat destruction and issues such as soil erosion and water pollution. The air quality has also deteriorated, with pollutants from coal plants impacting the health of the local population.

Furthermore, regulatory bodies in Zimbabwe have struggled to enforce adequate environmental standards[UO4] , a failure rooted in various systemic issues. One of the most pressing concerns is the prioritization of corporate profits over the well-being of both people and the environment. This profit-driven mentality has resulted in a lack of investment in sustainable practices and a disregard for the long-term consequences of these energy generation methods. Witnessing these realities in Hwange has reshaped my understanding of energy production and its broader implications, highlighting the urgent need for a more balanced approach that prioritizes environmental protection alongside energy needs.

In 2019, Cyclone Idai devastated Chimanimani, and I thought it was the worst disaster ever to hit my beloved country due to its rapid onset and immediate impact. But now I can’t help but marvel at how nature in Chimanimani is gradually reclaiming its strength and beauty, slowly healing the wounds left by the cyclone. On the other hand what is happening in Hwange now is a slow-onset disaster that the nation doesn’t fully recognize, largely due to political capture and greed. Only a select few who appreciate the environment can see that Hwange is indeed a ticking time bomb—a slow-growing cancer that gradually consumes its victim.

About the Author:

Clariss Masiya is a dedicated Gender Equality and Social Inclusion Expert with a strong focus on Climate Justice and Sustainable Community Development. Currently serving as the Program Officer for Gender Equity and Social Inclusion at Green Governance Zimbabwe Trust (GGZT), she plays a crucial role in ensuring the integration of gender-responsive strategies into GGZT’s climate action initiatives. Clariss works to address gender inequalities through inclusive approaches, advocating for marginalized voices in the fight against climate change. She holds a BSc in Peace and Governance and is pursuing an MSc in Disaster Management, furthering her expertise in building resilient communities. In addition to her work in social development, Clariss is an accomplished writer, contributing articles and opinion papers on topics related to gender, governance, and sustainability.

*Featured image by Maksim Samuilionak on Unsplash